Visit to Whitechapel bell foundry

Whitechapel, a 500-year-old marvel in the 21st Century in the Heart of London

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One Thursday morning, 18 September 2014 I cycled up to Whitechapel to witness something amazing: three new bells being cast. Once everyone (including nosy bell ringers) had arrived, Mark Backhouse, the Works Manager showed us through the courtyard and into the main workshop, where we took our place behind the almost invisible yellow line that serves as a sign of the health and safety zone. We immediately travelled 500 years back in time, as nothing had changed much over the centuries, except perhaps, that the furnace is now not fuelled by charcoal but oil. However, we wouldn’t witness that, only the roaring of the immense heat that – over 5 hours – melted 20 cwt of bell metal, mainly copper and tin.

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The floor was covered in dust, while the walls were full of handcrafted tools, bell shaped gauges to form moulds, among them the one that had formed the famous Big Ben; human-operated, chain-driven pullies and lifting systems; a great tank of sticky moulding material (loam); an oven as big as a double room to air dry the moulds (this place does not need too much heating in winter). This is a craft that produces handmade bells from beginning to end using hardly any machinery. By the way, did you know that each foundry has their own shape of bells, their own individual sound? This is called the “Whitechapel profile”. And as Ben Kipling was kind to explain: “Actually there are a few slightly different “Whitechapel profiles”: “Whitechapel Old-Style profile”, “Whitechapel Mark I Simpson profile”, “Whitechapel Mark II Simpson profile” and “Whitechapel Mark III Simpson profile”. “The sound bow of a Whitechapel bell is typically slightly larger and taller than the sound bows of most other bells, and the exact curve of the waist and crown also varies slightly.”

Pic 3As we learned, the loam for the moulds is made up of sand, clay, horse manure, goats’ hair and water, to add up to a sticky, mud-like substance that is shaped to fill in the inside and cover up the outside of the wannabe bell. When the desired shape and size is formed using the locally crafted tool (the gauge), the mould is set into the drying oven. Any cracks appearing during this process will be filled in until the surface is perfectly smooth. You don’t want any excess metal.

Pic 4The mould is then sealed together and placed on an iron stands, ready for the metal. The metal needs 4-6 hours to melt in the furnace at around 1100 degrees Celsius, depending, of course on the size of the future bells. Believe it or not, there aren’t overly complicated mathematical calculations on how much metal is needed for the bells, it is in the instincts of the foundry workers and in the air and tradition of the foundry, I guess. Then it is poured into a huge “bucket” (crucible) that helps carry it to each mould.

Pic 5But before that, any impurities that there may be get scraped off the top of the liquid bell metal: only the finest bronze deserves to become a bell.

Pic 6And the magic started here: a water-like, glowing, fiery metal was poured into the mould letting out hot air and methane gas. It resembled a mini volcano. The powder on top helped retain the temperature to keep the top metal molten until the rest of the bell had begun to solidify. And another fun fact: the animal hair in the mould does not only keep the mould together but burns from the heat during the casting, giving its place to tiny air vents that allow extra pressure to escape and prevent the mould from blowing up.

Then they were left to cool. It can take 3 days, but if they are huge tenors, it can take up to a week or two. When done – it starts feeling like a recipe –, the mould is carefully lifted to reveal the newly cast bell.

Pic 7Pic 8The bell is then taken to the neighbouring workshop to get tuned. I never have thought it was this complicated, but they don’t only get tuned for one, but five notes, so that the overall tone will give the most pleasant possible sound, that will distinguish them from buckets. In the tuning workshop we learned from Ben, that as a bell gets thinner its sound gets to lower and lower notes. It is again not without importance which part of the bell the metal gets removed: as we saw on two old bells (so old that they were tuned with chisel and hammer), if you carve the inside of the sound rim, the note gets lower, whereas if you chip off metal from the lip, the note gets higher. Isn’t it interesting? Pic 9Tuning today is done with a machine, making it somewhat faster, but still a lot depends on the bell tuner’s perception of and satisfaction from the overall sound of the bell. Pic 10When the bell is trained to sing properly, it goes to be prepared to get hung in towers. In earlier times, they had loops or canons, cast together with the main bell, today bells are cast with a flat head in which holes are drilled that serve to attach a headstock to it. Such canons, and quite fancy ones too, can be seen in this picture with monkeys who want to “hear no evil” (or are they just complaining that the tuner neglected his job? I don’t know).  Pic 11

The craftsmen here are all wonderful people and pay careful attention to what they are doing, maybe that’s why Whitechapel’s bells are so outstanding across the world. I cannot thank them enough to let me witness such a magnificent event, but can only encourage everyone to visit the foundry and experience one of the few workshops where the products are still handmade after hundreds and hundreds of years of tradition and thus individually unique and marvellous.

Written by Eva Redei

Proofread and adjusted by Ben Kipling

Narrated by Mark Backhouse

Virtual reality comes to Isle of Dogs

At Christchurch Isle of Dogs about two months ago we installed sensors on all of the bells to help train a new band. After we saw the latest release of Abel at the Roadshow we installed it and acquired a spare projector (my clients don’t need me to take my own projector to presentations these days). By moving some of the peal boards we had a perfect screen on the opposite wall, with near life-size images of the ringers.

At our tied bell practices over the last couple of weeks we have tried various things, with excellent results. By using the ‘add method’ feature we have been able to add various kaleidoscope exercises (dodging and place making), as well as many of the exercises in ART’s teaching tool box. Even experienced ringers find it difficult to jump in and ring a method straight away on the simulator, but the moving ringers and the use of the various exercises to split down the learning process into small manageable steps really helps.

Our new ringers have been able to progress much quicker than at a normal practice. The problems with a normal practice are that you can only give each beginner two or three ‘prime rings’ in an evening (a touch specifically for them with a strong band around them) – and the experienced ringers don’t want to spend all evening just ringing things for the beginners. With the new release of Abel, I have been able to give the new ringers much more rope time in an hour and a half session, so they get more practice to perfect things, and are being brought on much faster. They also tell me that it is less intimidating, as they are less worried about making mistakes in front of other people.

We were also able to have useful discussions about striking. Without prompting I found that several of the beginners were watching the striking display at the bottom of the screen to see how far out they were. It was particularly useful to slow the peal speed down to 4:30 and to have a discussion about counting your place and including an open hand stroke lead, and then to get them to count along, before gradually speeding up. It was much clearer than doing this in real time.

Teaching people how to lead was also much easier to explain. By slowing the motion down I was also able to show how the treble needs to wait till the tenor is almost catching their sally, before the treble pulls off to start the next handstroke. I know that ropesight is not as accurate as ringing by rhythm, but I am pretty sure that my new ringers are using a combination of both senses. With our multi-bell interface I have also found that two new ringers can practice ringing rounds at once, so long as they are not on adjacent bells – 2 and 6 work well.

Although it’s not the same as ringing with real people, it is far better than previous versions of simulator software and allows us to do far more with our beginners. We have effectively been able to set up a second practice night, without the need to find four more experienced ringers each week, and who are prepared to ring just rounds, call changes, kaleidoscope exercises and plain hunting all night long. Just what is needed if we are to train new ringers, and to enable them to progress fast enough to maintain their interest, on anything like the scale that is required.

We taught lions, tigers, wolves, bees…and a policeman!

Policeman Children learning

Taking the Charmborough Ring to the Bermondsey Street Festival on Saturday was always going to be an interesting experience. The ring captured the imagination of the public, especially the younger members of the local community. Over the space of four hours a steady stream of people came forward. We were able to give each of them a few backstrokes and then they were able to ring the backstrokes in rounds, with experienced ringers ringing the other bells. One young person described the experience as ‘awesome’ and from the smiles on faces, many of whom had visited the face painting stand earlier, many others felt the same too!

Our colourful ‘I rang the bells today’ stickers with the Learning the Ropes logo also proved very popular, and we know that we must have given at least 52 people a go during the course of the afternoon.

We also made some useful contacts in the local community, including the events manager from Southwark Council, who would like us to come to other events next year, and a person from the Riverside Parents Association.

Twelve people have said that they would like to find out more and left their e-mail addresses, and we will be following this up by making contact with them again over the next few days. They have been invited along to Tuesday’s practice for a taster lesson on the dumb-bell and if they are interested the plan is to arrange a course of six intensive ‘one to one’ lessons for each of them over the next fortnight. By the end they should be able to handle a bell on their own, and then join in with the main practice.

If we have a lot of young ringers, we may also arrange some sessions earlier on Tuesday evenings, before the main practice, and incorporate handbells and belleplates to help retain their interest.I rang the bells today square

http://www.bb.ringingworld.co.uk/view.php?id=349774

http://www.bb.ringingworld.co.uk/view.php?id=350033

http://www.bb.ringingworld.co.uk/view.php?id=350034

http://www.bb.ringingworld.co.uk/view.php?id=350032

Ringing the changes at St Mary Magdalen Bermondsey

St Mary Magdalen before 1828

St Mary Magdalen before 1828 (above) and today (below).

St Mary Magdalen today

This Saturday, 20th September, the sound of Church bells ringing the changes will be heard again for the first time in over 180 years at St Mary Magdalen Church at the corner of Tower Bridge Road and Abbey Street in Bermondsey. Bellringers from the daughter church of St James’ will erect a mobile belfry in the churchyard at St Mary Magdalen as part of the Bermondsey Street Festival, between 12.00 and 4.00pm.

Parts of the tower at St Mary Magdalen date back to 1290, and there are records of 14 peals being rung on the bells hung in the tower. The first was 10,080 changes of Plain Bob Major rung by the College Youths on 18th May 1728. This was one of the very earliest peals rung anywhere.  The first ever peal was rung in Norwich less than 10 years before.

Whilst the bells at St Mary Magdalen played an important role in the development of change-ringing, in 1828 the top half of the tower at St Mary Magdalen was demolished and its bells were melted down.

On Saturday the band from St James’ will be bringing the Charmborough Ring, a mobile bell tower for the day and demonstrating the art of ringing the changes. There will also be the opportunity for members of the public to have a go.

St James has a peal of eight bells and an active team of ringers, although their leader Roger Booth say that they could always do with a few more ringers. The team also mans the ropes at nearby St Mary’s Church in Rotherhithe and is offering would be ringers an intensive series of lessons so that people could learn the basics in a week, and then join in with the rest of the team at their regular weekly practice sessions at St James’ at 7.30pm on Tuesday evenings.

Greg’s Oxfordshire Outing

A bit of careless talking by Greg at the last DRC AGM led him to be volunteered as organiser of an outing to Oxfordshire on Saturday, July 12th. As this was a trip to the countryside with little public transport and a tight schedule, car sharing was arranged for the attendees.

First up at 09.30 White’s of Appleton.

As Greg’s trip notes read ‘Visit the oldest bell-hanging company in the UK, and ring the ‘Balscote Ring’: Rings of 12 + 5: tenor: 1.2.16 in Bb.   No stays or slides’. White’s are not really a bell foundry, but they have lots of bells in various stages of being worked on. They also have a storeroom with a mini-ring up in its attic.

The Balscote Ring hiding in the attic at White's (photo by Andrew)

The Balscote Ring hiding in the attic at White’s (photo by Andrew)

I do not particularly get on with mini-rings as it’s a bit like drinking half-pints and I just don’t see the point. It turned out that Greg grew up in Appleton, and was aware of White’s as a boy, but had no interest in those days. So, a bit of unfinished business for Greg, and off we went to –

11.00-12.00 St Michael’s Church, Cumnor 8 bells (13.1.4 in F)

Ed did a very nice sketch of Cumnor, which I attach here

Graffito on the staircase at Cumnor (photo by Elizabeth)

Cumnor was a lovely old church with a wonderful wooden staircase as these pics by Elizabeth show –

Staircase at Cumnor

Graffito on staircase at Cumnor (photo by Elizabeth)

Graffito on staircase at Cumnor (photo by Elizabeth)

 

Ringing at Cumnor (photo by Nolan)

Ringing at Cumnor (photo by Nolan)

12.15-13.45 Lunch at the Rose Revived

An eponymous pub on the river with a nice view as captured by Ed –

Sketch from The Rose Revived pub (by Ed)

Sketch from The Rose Revived pub (by Ed)

 

14.00-15.00 St James’ Church, South Leigh 8 bells (10.1.26 in G)

After an excellent lunch, we resumed our itinerary.  I must mention Greg’s directions here – I don’t know whether this was Greg’s natural playfulness, poor typing skills, or just general silliness, but just about every direction had an error ‘turn left’ actually means ‘turn right’, postcodes were incorrect for satnavs etc.  I thought this added to the ambience as our cars scattered across South Oxon with people making different judgements.

15.30-16.30 Church of St Peter & St Paul, Long Hanborough 6 bells (13.1.24)

 

17.00-18.00 St Mary Magdalene Church, Woodstock 8 bells (12.3.24 in F)

 

Kings Arms, 19 Market Street, Woodstock, Oxfordshire OX20 1SU

We actually went to a different pub on the recommendation of the gentleman who let us into the church.  A couple of pints and we headed back to London in the cars.  An excellent day out to a part of the country that I didn’t know. Well played Greg for organising the outing and dealing with late cancellations and changes. Thanks to Chris and Andrew for organising the ringing.

 

p.s. as my memory of the afternoon’s churches is non-existent, pls send me text and I will add it.  Same for photos.